[So I’m home now, but there are a few things I feel I should add for completeness’s sake and if anyone is still reading this, there should be some interesting photos of Istanbul forthcoming in the next few days.]
Gül Baba (Rose Father) was a famous Ottoman poet who lived in Buda during the late 1500s. When he died, he was buried on top of a hill just north of castle hill, in a lovely octagonal tomb surrounded by rose gardens. The tomb itself actually belongs to the Republic of Turkey, but it’s open to visitors needing a break from the city (or in my case, studying for finals).
The rose gardens themselves are small but spectacular.
Lehel Market, in the northeastern section of central Pest, is one of my favorite markets. You can get everything there, and it’s very economical.
The meat counters. In the bottom left corner, you can see two people eating lángos, the delicious fried dough of Hungary. I could smell it from where I was standing.
The main market hall, where fruits and vegetables are sold. Unlike the big market, this one is mostly full of people from Budapest.
After the Pálinka festival at Buda Castle last weekend, we took the metro to Batthyány Tér for crepes. Nagyi Palacsinta (Granny’s Pancakes) is this awesome crepe restaurant with about 15 kinds of savory pancakes and twice as many sweet ones. We ordered two apiece (I got chestnut cream and marzipan cream), but In the days afterward, I was crepe-obsessed. I couldn’t stop thinking about them. So when it was my turn to make dinner again, this is what turned up. They were absolutely delicious, and not at all hard to make, even without a blender. I present here a large recipe–it made enough dinner for three plus extra crepes for breakfast the next morning. They reheat remarkably well in a pan (best) or a microwave (ok) and since the crepes themselves are not savory, they lend themselves as well to nutella as cheese.
Last night I dreamed that I was leaving Budapest, and I woke up happy that it wasn’t true and then was sad that it will be in slightly more than a week.
I’m sure you realize that what I have presented to you here is a somewhat slicker, neater version of my real life, which has a lot more homework and angst and vacuuming (seriously, who knew you had to vacuum once a week or else have black feet constantly?) and lying-on-my-bed-reading that you might not find interesting. I don’t write about my feelings much.
Happy Birthday, Dad! I hope you had a good day. Boulder must be beautiful right now.
Thanks for bringing me to Europe. This has been the most interesting semester of my life, and I have had a fantastic time here. And thanks for teaching me to explore a city and then go climb something mountain-y when it gets too boring. Can’t wait for Wyoming this summer!
Much love, Ariana
Oh Budapest. I will be very sad to go in two weeks. Friday afternoon I finished class at noon and took the bus downtown in search of a good guidebook for Istanbul (where I am going. In two weeks. So excited!). On my way back, I dropped by the Vásárcsarnok and picked up a giant bunch of medvehagyma. The word means bear onions*, but we call them ramsons, ramp, or broad-leaved garlic in English. If you’re ever lucky enough to find these near you, buy some. They’re garlicky and fresh and so delicious, so I thought I would share my totally improvised recipe for bear onion champ. You can replace the bear onions with any green, but it won’t be quite the same.